June 10, 2010
A conversation with an expert ranger at Singita, South Africa
Singita safari lodges are among the most exclusive and acclaimed luxury safari experiences in Africa. We recently visited Singita Boulders and caught up with Marc Alkema, one of the head rangers we use for game drives in Sabi Sand.
Q: Why did you decide to become a ranger?
A: I was on a family holiday at the age of six in the Greater Wetland St. Lucia Park (Isamangalismo). I was bubbling with excitement when I found myself in that amazing environment. One of the Game Rangers who was working there noticed my enthusiasm and asked my family to accompany them on a crocodile capture that was taking place. Of course, we did not participate but had the opportunity to witness the capture of some massive crocodiles that were to be relocated into other wildlife areas. I will never forget that time!
My life changed after that introduction to nature and has always revolved around animals. I began to appreciate and enjoy the outdoors even more.
When I moved from Kwazulu Natal to Barberton in Mpumalanga at the age of nine, my grandparents took me and my brother into the Kruger National Park. It was the best! I knew for certain that I was to become a Game Ranger and would aspire to work in this unbelievable place.
Besides this incredible career, it is a chance to give back to the environment and teach people about the environment and conservation efforts through tourism and local projects.
Q: Is there anything unique about the qualifications you must have in order to be a ranger at Singita?
A: All guides and trackers have to belong to the Field Guides Association of South Africa in order to be legally accepted by any company. Singita has its own intense guide training program, which comprises theory and a lot of practical training. In addition, we also are trained in a wide range of subjects including wine, astronomy, wilderness first aid, road map orientation, and animal behavior, just to name a few. We at Singita try to encourage growth of our team, and ongoing training makes it great to work for a company like Singita.
Q: How does the wildlife in this area compare to other areas of South Africa?
A: The wildlife in this area is second to none. I don't say this just because I work here but talk from experience compared to other parks. This natural ecosystem is one of the largest heartlands of wildlife areas in Africa and thus allows for very little interference from humans. This creates the most magical wilderness areas. Anybody who has visited this area will agree that we have an incredible area in terms of the quality and diversity of wildlife that can be seen in a short amount of time.
Q: What do you enjoy most about living in the bush?
A: The best part of living in the bush is to experience a sense of freedom and have the ability to get to know one self quite intimately. The bush gives me a feeling of pleasure and excitement. I always look forward to the next thing that might come around the corner. The bush has lots of surprises and secrets that are revealed in their own time and space.
Q: Most rangers work for many weeks at the lodge followed by a few weeks off for holiday. What do you do during your holidays?
A: I love the outdoors and spend as much time away from the cities as I can. I go horse riding in the countryside near my home. I also go camping in various national parks in South Africa and other African countries to gain new experience and improve my knowledge.
I sometimes go home to visit my family back in Barberton, Mpumalanga where I grew up. Barberton is a small country town in a valley with beautiful mountains. I am close to my family and enjoy my time with them.
I also love to travel abroad. I have travelled to New Zealand a couple of times, Australia, France and the UK. Within Africa I have been to Uganda, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Swaziland.
Q: How often do you see the "Big Five" in the Sabi Sand?
A: The Sabi Sands is known to show a high diversity of animals to guests that stay over a short period. In the Sabi Sands, we see members of the Big 5 on every drive. If you were visiting other parks where one travels on roads through spotting and no tracking, it may take you a lot longer.
Q: What is the difference between a ranger and a tracker?
A: A ranger has knowledge of the bush through in depth studies and training. The ranger also has to have basic knowledge of tracking and ability to use these skills to try and find the animals.
A tracker has extensive knowledge based on experiences (often starting at a young age) with tracking, the bush and animals. This knowledge is passed on from generation to generation, traditional among men because they were hunters. In today's life, these trackers use their skills that were passed on over the generations to find wildlife like the Big 5 for Singita's guests. Their knowledge of how animals think and their ability to anticipate where animals will go and what they will do enables them to find the animals faster and successfully.
Trackers also know a lot about the traditional medicinal uses of the vegetation. Again, this knowledge was passed down to them over the generations.
Q: Besides game drives, what other activities do guests most enjoy?
A: Bush walks are the most popular due to the fact that you are on foot within dangerous animals' habitat and there is a thrill of adventure to encounter these animals. Mountain biking is not far behind walking but one often stays to the tracks. The same level of excitement is there. Archery and fishing is not everybody's cup of tea but those who are keen to experience something new find it is fun. Some guests purely love to visit the Singita shop for retail therapy or visit the spa where they can relax and unwind.
Q: If you could be any animal, which would you be?
A: I would love to be an eagle. The freedom of flight and to watch the world go by and all its happenings. There are not many aerial predators who will be hunting you.
Q: What was it like growing up in South Africa?
A: I am one of the last young generations born in an apartheid era. I grew up seeing segregation and the country change through violence and peace negotiations into where we are now: a New Democratic South Africa.
There were periods of uncertainty for many White South Africans regarding what the future held for them. Due to Nelson Mandela and his foresight due to reconciliation and build a nation together, I knew we had a great future to look forward to.
South Africa is a wonderful place for a young person to grow up. It is so diverse with all the different tribes and languages which make it very unique. I grew up in a liberal home which helped me not to be confused with the government's racial regime and knew from an early age what was right or wrong and my parents allowed me to make my own decisions.
We have great climatic conditions which allow us to enjoy the outdoors as well the abundant wildlife areas we have. This made me fall in love with what I do as a career now.
South Africa is my home and I love it.
Q: What are your hobbies?
A: I love horse riding, hiking on trails, mountain Biking and fishing. I also enjoy to bird watching and reading.
Q: What are you reading these days?
A: A Biography on John Smit, South Africa's national rugby Team captain called Captain in the Cauldron.
Q: What is your favorite food? Any memorable meals by a Singita chef?
A: My favorite food is Braai or barbecue. I love food cooked over a fire. I must say that the Singita chefs do know how to put on a good spread. I love the six course meals they create. The chefs have an incredible ability to give you such different tastes through dishes that complement one another and the various wines on offer.
Q: Which animal is most difficult to spot?
A: Leopard can be difficult to find due to their markings that camouflage so well. They may be in long grass or thick bush within meters from you and you will struggle to see them.
Rare and endangered animals like Black Rhino or Wild dog can be hard to find due to low numbers or low density and chances of coming across them are not easy.
Q: What is your favorite time of the day in Sabi Sands and why?
A: My favorite time of the day is sunrise. I count my blessings that I wake up in this amazing environment every day. It is so beautiful to witness nature at work.
Q: The Singita properties are considered some of the best in the world. Why do you think that is the case?
A: Magnificent lodges, style and décor. The locations that Singita has chosen are unique and abundant in wildlife. The safari experience is very hard to beat. Incredible food and wine. And Singita employs the right people. To work at Singita you have to be the best of the bunch and fit into the Singita family.
Artisans of Leisure's private tours of South Africa include stays at Singita luxury safari lodges.
March 3, 2010
Luis Barragan: Modern architecture in Mexico City
Luis Barragan (1902-1988) is considered one of the greatest architects of the 20th century, and his buildings in Mexico City are a must-see for aficionados of art, architecture and design.
Born and raised in Guadalajara, Mexico, Barragan studied engineering in his youth, but soon gravitated toward architecture. While traveling in Europe, he was inspired by the concepts of Swiss architect Le Corbusier; the Moorish-style gardens of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain; and the theories of Ferdinand Bac, a German-French landscape architect who espoused the emotional power of architecture.
In the late 1930s, Barragan moved to Mexico City, and by the early 1940s, he had begun to work in the individual style he's known for today.
Casa Luis Barragan in the Tacubaya section of Mexico City is a trademark design by the architect. Completed in 1948, the building served as Barragan's home and as a testing ground for design experimentation and refinement.
Like many of Barragan's mature works, Casa Barragan is a sophisticated interplay of architecture, interior design and landscape architecture that blurs the boundaries between inside and outside, house and garden. It combines the hard edges of European Modernism with the protective walls and intimate courtyards of Mexican regional styles, the white surfaces punctuated with monochrome expanses of vivid pink, purple and yellow that suffuse the spaces with a sensuous glow.
In 2004, UNESCO designated Casa Barragan (a.k.a. Luis Barragan House and Studio) a World Heritage Site for the way it "integrated modern and traditional artistic and vernacular currents and elements into a new synthesis, which has been greatly influential, especially in the contemporary design of gardens, plazas and landscapes."
Barragan designed several other significant buildings around Mexico City, including the Casa Prieto Lopez (1943-49), an important project in Barragan's ambitious Jardines del Pedregal residential development on lava fields in southern Mexico City; the Chapel for the Capuchinas Sacramentarias del Purisimo Corazon de Maria (1952-55), a convent and church renovation in Tlalpan; Los Clubes, a residential development that includes the San Cristobal Stables and Lovers Fountain (1964); and Casa Gilardi (1976-80), a private home built around a swimming pool and jacaranda tree.
In 1980, Barragan was awarded the Pritzker Prize, architecture's answer to the Nobel Prize. His buildings have continued to inspire generations of architects and designers.

On our private Mexico tours, we can include a private tour of Casa Barragan and other works by Luis Barragan as part of a tour of the city's cultural highlights. For travelers with a greater interest in modern art, architecture and design, we can arrange full-day or multi-day tours with architectural experts of major works of the 20th (and 21st) century in Mexico City, such as Art Deco landmarks, the House-Studio of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera (1931) by Juan O'Gorman, the Church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal (1953-55) by Felix Candela, Hotel Camino Real (1965-68) by Ricardo Legorreta, the National Museum of Anthropology (1963-64) and Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (1974-76) by Pedro Ramirez Vazquez, and the National Autonomous University of Mexico (1949-1952), a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Modernist buildings designed by several different architects and covered in murals and mosaics by some of Mexico's most famous modern artists.
December 22, 2009
Luxury Family Tours of Italy
Italy is one of our most popular family destinations for many reasons. Food is easy: nearly everyone loves Italian specialties such as pasta, pizza, antipasti, fried vegetables, cheese and gelato. Culture is everywhere: older children are fascinated by places where history is so tangible (and beautiful), and younger children are wowed by iconic places such as the Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Colosseum. Italians are very family-oriented: they love entertaining children and are always eager to lend a hand when a parent needs a little help or a momentary distraction (doormen in Italy are not above playing hide-and-seek with toddlers in hotel lobbies).
Many of our favorite hotels and resorts in Italy are very family-friendly, with kids clubs, child-friendly activities and extensive resort facilities. A highlight of visiting in the summer is spending warm afternoons swimming in the beautiful pools at Villa d'Este (Lake Como), Hotel Cipriani (Venice), the Four Seasons Hotel Florence, and the Rome Cavalieri (Rome).
Our private Italy tours make family travel easy and stress-free. We take care of all the logistics, such as selecting the very best hotels and hotel rooms, making restaurant and babysitter reservations, and ensuring connecting rooms or extra beds as required. We also arrange details such as VIP access at museums and top attractions so no one has to wait in line.
Our private guides bring history alive for children, and they provide a friendly, personalized connection to Italian life and culture. Our private drivers transport families from city to city in a luxurious and hassle-free way.
We arrange many special activities for families visiting Italy, such as private boat charters on Lake Como or to the isle of Capri, private gladiator lessons in Rome, hands-on lessons in traditional crafts, private gondola and boat rides in Venice, visits to specialty food makers and high-end car factories in Emilia Romagna, private family cooking classes, visits to local amusement parks and playgrounds, privately guided hiking, visits to renowned Italian toy stores, and much more.
Our favorite family tour itinerary in Italy combines the cities of Rome, Florence and Venice with several magical days in Lake Como at Villa d'Este—arguably the best luxury family resort in Italy. Visit our website to peruse our many recommended luxury tours in Italy.
November 19, 2009
Private touring in the Atacama Desert, Chile
Touring the Atacama Desert with your own private local guide is the best way to experience this spectacular region in northern Chile and its many attractions.
Private touring allows travelers to visit Atacama highlights such as the Valley of the Moon without the crowds. We arrange exclusive activities such as a private breakfast while watching geysers erupt in a geothermal field high in the Andes,
visiting pre-Columbian ruins and petroglyphs with an archaeologist, taking photography expeditions to capture dramatic landscapes such as colorful salt lakes and snow-capped volcanoes at the best times of day, seeing pink flamingoes feeding in lagoons, hiking through desert gorges and across vast sand dunes, mountain biking through high-desert valleys, relaxing in natural hot springs, viewing the dazzling night sky with an astronomer, and taking pottery classes with local artisans.
Our travelers stay at a luxurious resort in the historic village of San Pedro de Atacama, where they can enjoy blue skies, dry desert air and a slow-paced atmosphere.
Our luxury Chile tours combine the Atacama Desert with many other wonderful touring options in the region, such as visiting historic cities and renowned wine estates in central Chile; hiking among glaciers, lakes and mountains in wild Patagonia; and exploring the beauty and mystery of remote Easter Island. The Atacama Desert also combines naturally with Salta and Jujuy provinces in northwest Argentina, as well as many other destinations in Argentina, Peru and Ecuador.
November 13, 2009
Tel Aviv's Top 5 cultural travel experiences
Israel's most dynamic city, Tel Aviv is the country's cultural and commercial heart and a highlight of any tour of Israel. Although it possesses no holy sites and a relatively short history (aside from the ancient port of Jaffa), Tel Aviv is a vibrant, 24-hour city with a wide array of cultural offerings, restaurants and nightlife that no other Israeli city matches. Adding to its appeal is a beautiful Mediterranean beach setting. Here is a list of our top five favorite things to see and do in Tel Aviv:
1.) Old Jaffa
This ancient Arab port city, also known as Yafo, was once the gateway to Jerusalem. Archaeologists have unearthed remains dating back to the 20th century B.C., establishing Jaffa as one of the world's oldest ports. It has since been absorbed into the city of Tel Aviv, and today many of its atmospheric cobblestone alleyways are lined with art studios and galleries. Wandering through the old town with one of our expert local guides, you can see reminders of past and present occupants: old Arab houses, fountains and mosques; Ottoman structures; Greek Orthodox churches, Roman Catholic and Armenian monasteries; synagogues; ancient Roman and Crusader-era remnants; and even a cannon belonging to Napoleon's army. Browsing Jaffa's flea market is a highlight. Comprised of shops offering second-hand clothing, intricately patterned backgammon sets, jewelry, Judaica, ceramics and other items, the market also yields the occasional genuine antique for those who persevere. Dotting the market are numerous falafel and pomegranate-juice stands. Or, if you prefer a sit-down meal, join the locals at the perennially popular Dr. Shakshuka restaurant, which specializes in the eponymous egg and tomato sauce dish.
2.) Bauhaus architecture
In 2003, the "White City" of Tel Aviv was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its proliferation of buildings designed in the International Modern architectural style, also known as Bauhaus. The Bauhaus movement started in Germany in the 1920s; German architects who immigrated to Israel introduced the style to Tel Aviv—with a few tweaks to accommodate the climate, such as balconies and smaller windows—and over the next few decades thousands of structures were built in this unique style. Bauhaus-style buildings can be seen throughout the city, but the highest concentration is found on and around elegant, tree-lined Rothschild Boulevard. For travelers keenly interested in architecture, we can arrange in-depth touring with one of our expert architecture guides.
3.) Markets
Tel Aviv is filled with wonderful open-air markets. One of the more popular is Carmel Market—Israel's largest—which overflows with spices, produce, fresh meat and fish, cheese, clothing, toys and kitchenware. This is a great place to sample delicious baklava and other local specialties while browsing the stalls and listening to the vendors sing about their products. Another great market for gastronomes is the Lewinski Spice Market—this is where local chefs and foodies come to buy exotic spices, olives, dried fruits and nuts, rare condiments and specialty products. Aside from food markets, there are numerous other interesting markets to be found in Tel Aviv, selling everything from rare books, old photographs, antique musical instruments and vintage clothing to Judaica, handmade silver jewelry and folk art and crafts.
4.) Neve Tzedek
Neve Tzedek is the city's hippest neighborhood, a charming enclave of beautifully restored houses, trendy restaurants, stylish boutiques and art galleries. Founded in 1887, it is the oldest neighborhood in Tel Aviv, and it was home to the cultural and literary elite in the early 20th century. Today Neve Tzedek's housing prices are some of the highest in the city, yet it preserves the feel of a small village, with its romantic winding alleys and colorful buildings. This is a great area for travelers interested in local art, as there are several first-rate art galleries in the vicinity, as well as a couple of private museums. Several dance companies are also located here, as is the Suzanne Dellal Center, a highly regarded dance and theater complex that is the venue for Israel's internationally acclaimed Batsheva Dance Company. We often arrange for tickets to evening performances for travelers who are interested in dance or music.
5.) Museums
There are a number of excellent museums located in Tel Aviv that are worth a visit. At the top of our list is the Museum of the Jewish Diaspora, a unique multimedia museum that chronicles various aspects of the Jewish people in Israel and around the world. Using photographs, documentary films, murals, dioramas, audiovisual displays and interactive exhibits, the visitor is taken on a journey across 2,500 years of the Jewish Diaspora. Other good options include the Eretz Israel Museum Complex, which focuses on Israeli archaeology, history and culture; the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, housing works by Israeli and international artists from the 16th century to the present, including especially good collections of Impressionist and modern art; the Helena Rubinstein Pavilion, which holds contemporary art exhibits; as well as other museums dedicated to art, literature, antiquities, military history, and famous figures and events in Israel's history.
We can incorporate visits to any of these places into our private Israel tours.

