Artisans of Leisure's blog: luxury, culture, travel, food, style, design, art

A conversation with an expert ranger at Singita, South Africa

2010-06-10T21:08:46Z

Singita safari lodges are among the most exclusive and acclaimed luxury safari experiences in Africa. We recently visited Singita Boulders and caught up with Marc Alkema, one of the head rangers we use for game drives in Sabi Sand.

Q: Why did you decide to become a ranger?
A: I was on a family holiday at the age of six in the Greater Wetland St. Lucia Park (Isamangalismo). I was bubbling with excitement when I found myself in that amazing environment. One of the Game Rangers who was working there noticed my enthusiasm and asked my family to accompany them on a crocodile capture that was taking place. Of course, we did not participate but had the opportunity to witness the capture of some massive crocodiles that were to be relocated into other wildlife areas. I will never forget that time!

My life changed after that introduction to nature and has always revolved around animals. I began to appreciate and enjoy the outdoors even more.
When I moved from Kwazulu Natal to Barberton in Mpumalanga at the age of nine, my grandparents took me and my brother into the Kruger National Park. It was the best! I knew for certain that I was to become a Game Ranger and would aspire to work in this unbelievable place.

Besides this incredible career, it is a chance to give back to the environment and teach people about the environment and conservation efforts through tourism and local projects.

Q: Is there anything unique about the qualifications you must have in order to be a ranger at Singita?
A: All guides and trackers have to belong to the Field Guides Association of South Africa in order to be legally accepted by any company. Singita has its own intense guide training program, which comprises theory and a lot of practical training. In addition, we also are trained in a wide range of subjects including wine, astronomy, wilderness first aid, road map orientation, and animal behavior, just to name a few. We at Singita try to encourage growth of our team, and ongoing training makes it great to work for a company like Singita.

Q: How does the wildlife in this area compare to other areas of South Africa?
A: The wildlife in this area is second to none. I don't say this just because I work here but talk from experience compared to other parks. This natural ecosystem is one of the largest heartlands of wildlife areas in Africa and thus allows for very little interference from humans. This creates the most magical wilderness areas. Anybody who has visited this area will agree that we have an incredible area in terms of the quality and diversity of wildlife that can be seen in a short amount of time.

Q: What do you enjoy most about living in the bush?
A: The best part of living in the bush is to experience a sense of freedom and have the ability to get to know one self quite intimately. The bush gives me a feeling of pleasure and excitement. I always look forward to the next thing that might come around the corner. The bush has lots of surprises and secrets that are revealed in their own time and space.

Q: Most rangers work for many weeks at the lodge followed by a few weeks off for holiday. What do you do during your holidays?
A: I love the outdoors and spend as much time away from the cities as I can. I go horse riding in the countryside near my home. I also go camping in various national parks in South Africa and other African countries to gain new experience and improve my knowledge.

I sometimes go home to visit my family back in Barberton, Mpumalanga where I grew up. Barberton is a small country town in a valley with beautiful mountains. I am close to my family and enjoy my time with them.

I also love to travel abroad. I have travelled to New Zealand a couple of times, Australia, France and the UK. Within Africa I have been to Uganda, Zambia, Botswana, Zimbabwe and Swaziland.

Q: How often do you see the "Big Five" in the Sabi Sand?
A: The Sabi Sands is known to show a high diversity of animals to guests that stay over a short period. In the Sabi Sands, we see members of the Big 5 on every drive. If you were visiting other parks where one travels on roads through spotting and no tracking, it may take you a lot longer.

Q: What is the difference between a ranger and a tracker?
A: A ranger has knowledge of the bush through in depth studies and training. The ranger also has to have basic knowledge of tracking and ability to use these skills to try and find the animals.

A tracker has extensive knowledge based on experiences (often starting at a young age) with tracking, the bush and animals. This knowledge is passed on from generation to generation, traditional among men because they were hunters. In today's life, these trackers use their skills that were passed on over the generations to find wildlife like the Big 5 for Singita's guests. Their knowledge of how animals think and their ability to anticipate where animals will go and what they will do enables them to find the animals faster and successfully.

Trackers also know a lot about the traditional medicinal uses of the vegetation. Again, this knowledge was passed down to them over the generations.

Q: Besides game drives, what other activities do guests most enjoy?
A: Bush walks are the most popular due to the fact that you are on foot within dangerous animals' habitat and there is a thrill of adventure to encounter these animals. Mountain biking is not far behind walking but one often stays to the tracks. The same level of excitement is there. Archery and fishing is not everybody's cup of tea but those who are keen to experience something new find it is fun. Some guests purely love to visit the Singita shop for retail therapy or visit the spa where they can relax and unwind.

Q: If you could be any animal, which would you be?
A: I would love to be an eagle. The freedom of flight and to watch the world go by and all its happenings. There are not many aerial predators who will be hunting you.

Q: What was it like growing up in South Africa?
A: I am one of the last young generations born in an apartheid era. I grew up seeing segregation and the country change through violence and peace negotiations into where we are now: a New Democratic South Africa.

There were periods of uncertainty for many White South Africans regarding what the future held for them. Due to Nelson Mandela and his foresight due to reconciliation and build a nation together, I knew we had a great future to look forward to.

South Africa is a wonderful place for a young person to grow up. It is so diverse with all the different tribes and languages which make it very unique. I grew up in a liberal home which helped me not to be confused with the government's racial regime and knew from an early age what was right or wrong and my parents allowed me to make my own decisions.

We have great climatic conditions which allow us to enjoy the outdoors as well the abundant wildlife areas we have. This made me fall in love with what I do as a career now.

South Africa is my home and I love it.

Q: What are your hobbies?
A: I love horse riding, hiking on trails, mountain Biking and fishing. I also enjoy to bird watching and reading.

Q: What are you reading these days?
A: A Biography on John Smit, South Africa's national rugby Team captain called Captain in the Cauldron.

Q: What is your favorite food? Any memorable meals by a Singita chef?
A: My favorite food is Braai or barbecue. I love food cooked over a fire. I must say that the Singita chefs do know how to put on a good spread. I love the six course meals they create. The chefs have an incredible ability to give you such different tastes through dishes that complement one another and the various wines on offer.

Q: Which animal is most difficult to spot?
A: Leopard can be difficult to find due to their markings that camouflage so well. They may be in long grass or thick bush within meters from you and you will struggle to see them.

Rare and endangered animals like Black Rhino or Wild dog can be hard to find due to low numbers or low density and chances of coming across them are not easy.

Q: What is your favorite time of the day in Sabi Sands and why?
A: My favorite time of the day is sunrise. I count my blessings that I wake up in this amazing environment every day. It is so beautiful to witness nature at work.

Q: The Singita properties are considered some of the best in the world. Why do you think that is the case?
A: Magnificent lodges, style and décor. The locations that Singita has chosen are unique and abundant in wildlife. The safari experience is very hard to beat. Incredible food and wine. And Singita employs the right people. To work at Singita you have to be the best of the bunch and fit into the Singita family.

Artisans of Leisure's private tours of South Africa include stays at Singita luxury safari lodges.

Luis Barragan: Modern architecture in Mexico City

2010-03-03T22:31:15Z

Luis Barragan (1902-1988) is considered one of the greatest architects of the 20th century, and his buildings in Mexico City are a must-see for aficionados of art, architecture and design.

Born and raised in Guadalajara, Mexico, Barragan studied engineering in his youth, but soon gravitated toward architecture. While traveling in Europe, he was inspired by the concepts of Swiss architect Le Corbusier; the Moorish-style gardens of the Alhambra in Granada, Spain; and the theories of Ferdinand Bac, a German-French landscape architect who espoused the emotional power of architecture.

In the late 1930s, Barragan moved to Mexico City, and by the early 1940s, he had begun to work in the individual style he's known for today.

Casa Luis Barragan in the Tacubaya section of Mexico City is a trademark design by the architect. Completed in 1948, the building served as Barragan's home and as a testing ground for design experimentation and refinement.

Like many of Barragan's mature works, Casa Barragan is a sophisticated interplay of architecture, interior design and landscape architecture that blurs the boundaries between inside and outside, house and garden. It combines the hard edges of European Modernism with the protective walls and intimate courtyards of Mexican regional styles, the white surfaces punctuated with monochrome expanses of vivid pink, purple and yellow that suffuse the spaces with a sensuous glow.

In 2004, UNESCO designated Casa Barragan (a.k.a. Luis Barragan House and Studio) a World Heritage Site for the way it "integrated modern and traditional artistic and vernacular currents and elements into a new synthesis, which has been greatly influential, especially in the contemporary design of gardens, plazas and landscapes."

Barragan designed several other significant buildings around Mexico City, including the Casa Prieto Lopez (1943-49), an important project in Barragan's ambitious Jardines del Pedregal residential development on lava fields in southern Mexico City; the Chapel for the Capuchinas Sacramentarias del Purisimo Corazon de Maria (1952-55), a convent and church renovation in Tlalpan; Los Clubes, a residential development that includes the San Cristobal Stables and Lovers Fountain (1964); and Casa Gilardi (1976-80), a private home built around a swimming pool and jacaranda tree.

In 1980, Barragan was awarded the Pritzker Prize, architecture's answer to the Nobel Prize. His buildings have continued to inspire generations of architects and designers.

On our private Mexico tours, we can include a private tour of Casa Barragan and other works by Luis Barragan as part of a tour of the city's cultural highlights. For travelers with a greater interest in modern art, architecture and design, we can arrange full-day or multi-day tours with architectural experts of major works of the 20th (and 21st) century in Mexico City, such as Art Deco landmarks, the House-Studio of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera (1931) by Juan O'Gorman, the Church of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal (1953-55) by Felix Candela, Hotel Camino Real (1965-68) by Ricardo Legorreta, the National Museum of Anthropology (1963-64) and Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe (1974-76) by Pedro Ramirez Vazquez, and the National Autonomous University of Mexico (1949-1952), a UNESCO World Heritage Site of Modernist buildings designed by several different architects and covered in murals and mosaics by some of Mexico's most famous modern artists.

Luxury Family Tours of Italy

2009-12-22T22:04:15Z

Italy is one of our most popular family destinations for many reasons. Food is easy: nearly everyone loves Italian specialties such as pasta, pizza, antipasti, fried vegetables, cheese and gelato. Culture is everywhere: older children are fascinated by places where history is so tangible (and beautiful), and younger children are wowed by iconic places such as the Leaning Tower of Pisa and the Colosseum. Italians are very family-oriented: they love entertaining children and are always eager to lend a hand when a parent needs a little help or a momentary distraction (doormen in Italy are not above playing hide-and-seek with toddlers in hotel lobbies).

Many of our favorite hotels and resorts in Italy are very family-friendly, with kids clubs, child-friendly activities and extensive resort facilities. A highlight of visiting in the summer is spending warm afternoons swimming in the beautiful pools at Villa d'Este (Lake Como), Hotel Cipriani (Venice), the Four Seasons Hotel Florence, and the Rome Cavalieri (Rome).

Our private Italy tours make family travel easy and stress-free. We take care of all the logistics, such as selecting the very best hotels and hotel rooms, making restaurant and babysitter reservations, and ensuring connecting rooms or extra beds as required. We also arrange details such as VIP access at museums and top attractions so no one has to wait in line.

Our private guides bring history alive for children, and they provide a friendly, personalized connection to Italian life and culture. Our private drivers transport families from city to city in a luxurious and hassle-free way.

We arrange many special activities for families visiting Italy, such as private boat charters on Lake Como or to the isle of Capri, private gladiator lessons in Rome, hands-on lessons in traditional crafts, private gondola and boat rides in Venice, visits to specialty food makers and high-end car factories in Emilia Romagna, private family cooking classes, visits to local amusement parks and playgrounds, privately guided hiking, visits to renowned Italian toy stores, and much more.

Our favorite family tour itinerary in Italy combines the cities of Rome, Florence and Venice with several magical days in Lake Como at Villa d'Este--arguably the best luxury family resort in Italy. Visit our website to peruse our many recommended luxury tours in Italy.

Private touring in the Atacama Desert, Chile

2009-11-19T22:10:43Z

Touring the Atacama Desert with your own private local guide is the best way to experience this spectacular region in northern Chile and its many attractions.

Private touring allows travelers to visit Atacama highlights such as the Valley of the Moon without the crowds. We arrange exclusive activities such as a private breakfast while watching geysers erupt in a geothermal field high in the Andes,

visiting pre-Columbian ruins and petroglyphs with an archaeologist, taking photography expeditions to capture dramatic landscapes such as colorful salt lakes and snow-capped volcanoes at the best times of day, seeing pink flamingoes feeding in lagoons, hiking through desert gorges and across vast sand dunes, mountain biking through high-desert valleys, relaxing in natural hot springs, viewing the dazzling night sky with an astronomer, and taking pottery classes with local artisans.

Our travelers stay at a luxurious resort in the historic village of San Pedro de Atacama, where they can enjoy blue skies, dry desert air and a slow-paced atmosphere.

Our luxury Chile tours combine the Atacama Desert with many other wonderful touring options in the region, such as visiting historic cities and renowned wine estates in central Chile; hiking among glaciers, lakes and mountains in wild Patagonia; and exploring the beauty and mystery of remote Easter Island. The Atacama Desert also combines naturally with Salta and Jujuy provinces in northwest Argentina, as well as many other destinations in Argentina, Peru and Ecuador.

Tel Aviv's Top 5 cultural travel experiences

2009-11-13T21:40:47Z

Israel's most dynamic city, Tel Aviv is the country's cultural and commercial heart and a highlight of any tour of Israel. Although it possesses no holy sites and a relatively short history (aside from the ancient port of Jaffa), Tel Aviv is a vibrant, 24-hour city with a wide array of cultural offerings, restaurants and nightlife that no other Israeli city matches. Adding to its appeal is a beautiful Mediterranean beach setting. Here is a list of our top five favorite things to see and do in Tel Aviv:

1.) Old Jaffa
This ancient Arab port city, also known as Yafo, was once the gateway to Jerusalem. Archaeologists have unearthed remains dating back to the 20th century B.C., establishing Jaffa as one of the world's oldest ports. It has since been absorbed into the city of Tel Aviv, and today many of its atmospheric cobblestone alleyways are lined with art studios and galleries. Wandering through the old town with one of our expert local guides, you can see reminders of past and present occupants: old Arab houses, fountains and mosques; Ottoman structures; Greek Orthodox churches, Roman Catholic and Armenian monasteries; synagogues; ancient Roman and Crusader-era remnants; and even a cannon belonging to Napoleon's army. Browsing Jaffa's flea market is a highlight. Comprised of shops offering second-hand clothing, intricately patterned backgammon sets, jewelry, Judaica, ceramics and other items, the market also yields the occasional genuine antique for those who persevere. Dotting the market are numerous falafel and pomegranate-juice stands. Or, if you prefer a sit-down meal, join the locals at the perennially popular Dr. Shakshuka restaurant, which specializes in the eponymous egg and tomato sauce dish.

2.) Bauhaus architecture
In 2003, the "White City" of Tel Aviv was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its proliferation of buildings designed in the International Modern architectural style, also known as Bauhaus. The Bauhaus movement started in Germany in the 1920s; German architects who immigrated to Israel introduced the style to Tel Aviv--with a few tweaks to accommodate the climate, such as balconies and smaller windows--and over the next few decades thousands of structures were built in this unique style. Bauhaus-style buildings can be seen throughout the city, but the highest concentration is found on and around elegant, tree-lined Rothschild Boulevard. For travelers keenly interested in architecture, we can arrange in-depth touring with one of our expert architecture guides.

3.) Markets
Tel Aviv is filled with wonderful open-air markets. One of the more popular is Carmel Market--Israel's largest--which overflows with spices, produce, fresh meat and fish, cheese, clothing, toys and kitchenware. This is a great place to sample delicious baklava and other local specialties while browsing the stalls and listening to the vendors sing about their products. Another great market for gastronomes is the Lewinski Spice Market--this is where local chefs and foodies come to buy exotic spices, olives, dried fruits and nuts, rare condiments and specialty products. Aside from food markets, there are numerous other interesting markets to be found in Tel Aviv, selling everything from rare books, old photographs, antique musical instruments and vintage clothing to Judaica, handmade silver jewelry and folk art and crafts.

4.) Neve Tzedek
Neve Tzedek is the city's hippest neighborhood, a charming enclave of beautifully restored houses, trendy restaurants, stylish boutiques and art galleries. Founded in 1887, it is the oldest neighborhood in Tel Aviv, and it was home to the cultural and literary elite in the early 20th century. Today Neve Tzedek's housing prices are some of the highest in the city, yet it preserves the feel of a small village, with its romantic winding alleys and colorful buildings. This is a great area for travelers interested in local art, as there are several first-rate art galleries in the vicinity, as well as a couple of private museums. Several dance companies are also located here, as is the Suzanne Dellal Center, a highly regarded dance and theater complex that is the venue for Israel's internationally acclaimed Batsheva Dance Company. We often arrange for tickets to evening performances for travelers who are interested in dance or music.

5.) Museums
There are a number of excellent museums located in Tel Aviv that are worth a visit. At the top of our list is the Museum of the Jewish Diaspora, a unique multimedia museum that chronicles various aspects of the Jewish people in Israel and around the world. Using photographs, documentary films, murals, dioramas, audiovisual displays and interactive exhibits, the visitor is taken on a journey across 2,500 years of the Jewish Diaspora. Other good options include the Eretz Israel Museum Complex, which focuses on Israeli archaeology, history and culture; the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, housing works by Israeli and international artists from the 16th century to the present, including especially good collections of Impressionist and modern art; the Helena Rubinstein Pavilion, which holds contemporary art exhibits; as well as other museums dedicated to art, literature, antiquities, military history, and famous figures and events in Israel's history.

We can incorporate visits to any of these places into our private Israel tours.

Hangzhou: a luxury retreat in China

2009-10-15T01:45:28Z

For centuries, Hangzhou has been regarded as one of China's most beautiful and relaxing destinations. The region's charms--scenic West Lake, ancient Buddhist temples, and abundant tea plantations--have changed little since Hangzhou was the imperial capital of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279).

The emperors may be long gone, but a luxurious lifestyle remains. The Fuchun Resort--one of the finest resorts in China--is a highlight for our travelers when visiting Hangzhou. Set in the hills outside the city, the Fuchun is an evocative collection of traditional Chinese-style buildings (complete with modern touches like a wonderful spa) overlooking lakes and mountains.

The Fuchun will soon be joined by new Banyan Tree and Aman resorts, giving Hangzhou a wealth of options for a relaxing break in refined and beautiful surroundings. The Banyan Tree has been built as a traditional water village overlooking the ponds and marshes of Xixi National Wetland Park. The Aman, which will also feature traditional Chinese-style architecture, has been built near Lingyin Temple, one of China's largest and most famous Buddhist temples. Both resorts will have extensive spa facilities.

When in Hangzhou, touring West Lake is a must. Hangzhou's most renowned scenic and cultural attraction, West Lake has been an inspiration for generations of artists and writers, who have captured its beauty in countless paintings and poems. Our Hangzhou tours include a private boat ride to see highlights such as the 10 Scenes of West Lake--viewpoints with poetic names like "Three Ponds Mirroring the Moon" and "Fish Viewing at the Flower Pond." We also include other highlights of Hangzhou, such as traditional Chinese gardens, ancient Buddhist temples in mist-shrouded hills, historic shops specializing in herbal medicine, and museums dedicated to local traditions such as seal engraving, tea and silk.

Longjing (Dragon Well) green tea, considered one of the finest teas in China, is another must when visiting Hangzhou. Exploring the local tea plantations is another touring highlight. In addition to tea, Hangzhou's cuisine is also renowned, with classic dishes such as dongpo rou (pork belly braised in Shaoxing rice wine) and West Lake fish in sweet-and-sour sauce.

Hagnzhou is featured in many of our luxury China tours and is a short drive from Shanghai.

Family travel in Peru

2009-10-14T02:02:45Z

Peru is one of our most popular family travel destinations. With awe-inspiring archaeological sites such as Machu Picchu, abundant wildlife, and incredible natural beauty, Peru offers the perfect mix of culture, nature and family-friendly activities.

Our guides in Peru are particularly skilled at keeping sightseeing interesting and fun for the entire family.

No visit to Peru is complete without a visit to Machu Picchu, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the highlights of South America. Our travelers journey to Machu Picchu on the famous Hiram Bingham train, then tour Machu Picchu with their own expert private guide. Kids love exploring the narrow stone walkways, hiking the trails around the site, and learning about Incan culture and architecture.

Our Peru tours include accommodation at the renowned Sanctuary Lodge, located right at Machu Picchu. Staying at Sanctuary Lodge allows families to enjoy the site in the early morning before the crowds arrive.

Peru is a great destination for outdoor activities. For active families, we arrange a private trekking guide for a day hike to Machu Picchu on the last stretch of the famous Inca Trail. For those seeking a more off-the-beaten-path experience, a private trek can be arranged to remote villages where families can visit local homes and schools. Another option is an overnight trek--complete with a private trekking crew and cook, pack horses, and high-quality camping equipment--that features camping under the stars at a less-visited Incan site.

We include special cultural activities such as a private weaving lesson where kids and parents can learn traditional weaving and dyeing techniques, an important aspect of Peruvian culture. Families also enjoy private cooking classes in Lima.

New luxury hotels opening in the Sacred Valley (Urubamba) are a great option for families interested in spending a few days enjoying the in-depth private touring and activities we arrange in the region, such as hands-on Peruvian cooking lessons, river rafting, hot-air ballooning, mountain biking, horseback riding, visiting local villages and markets, and exploring archaeological sites.

The Colca Canyon is another area of Peru that is perfect for families. We arrange a variety of private activities including canyon hikes, participating in community volunteer projects, visiting local towns, and riding Peruvian Paso horses.

Another family favorite in Peru is taking a luxury cruise through Peru's Amazon rainforest. Touring is with expert naturalist guides who point out squirrel monkeys, sloths, piranha, exotic birds and other fascinating wildlife along the waterways. Kids and parents alike love looking for pink dolphins in the river and spotting nocturnal wildlife during nighttime walks through the jungle. Visiting local indigenous villages with the guides is another highlight of our tours in the Amazon. Parents also appreciate the gourmet meals, excellent service and luxurious accommodations on board the cruise.

Many families also have us customize a private tour that combines Peru with a weeklong luxury cruise in the Galapagos.

An interview with one of our Sicily insiders

2009-10-09T20:25:45Z

Sicily has become a favorite destination for many of our clients who have already traveled extensively in Italy and for those interested in tracing their family heritage. Sicily is also great for first-time visitors to Italy who are attracted to the fascinating Mediterranean island for its complex history, abundant culture and delicious food. We recently chatted with one of our travel experts based in Agrigento, Sicily.

Q: What do travelers find most interesting about Sicily?

A: Sicily is the preeminent island in the Mediterranean, and it has long been at the crossroads of trade. Waves of successive conquerors have left their mark in superb architecture and inventive cuisine. Like many islands, Sicily is a melting pot of cultures, each wave of invaders adding to the culinary and architectural mix. The Greeks brought wine and superb temples; the Romans, pasta and amphitheaters; Normans, castle and church architecture; the Spanish, chocolate and the Baroque. But the Arabs had the greatest influence, introducing spices such as cinnamon and sesame, sweet-and-sour combinations of raisins and vinegar, fruit such as pomegranates, and couscous and other Eastern dishes. And their architectural influence is felt throughout the island.

Q: What do you consider the "must-visit" places in Sicily?

A: Sicily is home to the some of the best classical ruins anywhere, most of which are dramatically sited overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. I always suggest visiting the fifth-century B.C. Temple of Segesta, one of the world's most perfectly preserved monuments from antiquity; the Greek acropolis and ruined temples in Selinunte; the stunning Valley of the Temples in Agrigento; the grand Villa Romana del Casale, which is carpeted with the most magnificent mosaics in western Europe; the Temple of Apollo on Ortygia Island in Syracuse; and the great Greek theaters in Syracuse and Taormina.

I love cities such as Ragusa, Modica and Noto for their Baroque style. I love Palermo for its people; its monuments such as the Teatro Massimo, the Quattro Canti and the Cathedral; and its historic food markets---Il Capo, La Vucciria and Ballar�. I also love the medieval hilltop town of Erice, the wonderful landscape of the Salt Pans of Marsala, and finally Mount Etna for its special wines!

Q: What are your favorite Sicilian culinary specialties?

A: Caponata made with eggplant and vegetables, and cavatelli, a typical pasta.

Q: What do you think makes the Artisans of Leisure private tours in Sicily so special?

A: Travelers on Artisans of Leisure tours love the opportunity to visit Sicily's little towns, the countryside, and traditional producers of Sicilian specialties. They also like meeting the local people during activities such as private Sicilian cooking classes. The fact that the tours include the best hotels in Sicily, and can be taken anytime (including during festive times in Sicily like during Easter week) is another quality that travelers appreciate.

Q: What do you like to do in your free time?

A: I have a house in the country, so when I'm free, I relax in my garden. During the summer, I love to travel.

Q: Where do you like to travel in Sicily?

A: When I have some days free, I love to go to Mount Etna and walk. I live by the sea, so during the summer I love going to the beach!

Q: Where do you like to travel?

A: I visit Europe often, but I would love travel to India and New Zealand.

Q: What would you recommend for travelers interested in purchasing unique, authentically Sicilian items that they cannot find elsewhere?

A: Ceramics, a good bottle of extra virgin olive oil, and almond sweets.

Q: What are you reading these days?

A: The Empire of Chindia, a book by Federico Rampini about the economy and the new generations in India and China.

Q: Do you collect anything?

A: Ceramic tiles. My tiles are very old and are all from Sicily or Naples. They come from Burgio, Santo Stefano di Camastra, Palermo, Caltagirone, Sciacca and Panarea (one of the Aeolian Islands). I have some that can be dated from around 1200 or 1300 to 1800 and 1920.

Top 5: Quick getaways over the Christmas and New Year holidays

2009-10-06T15:53:25Z

Looking for great options for a short international trip over the Christmas and New Year holidays? Our luxury travel experts have selected five of their favorite destinations.

1.) Marrakesh
A week in Marrakesh promises over-the-top luxury, thriving traditional culture, great shopping and dining, and plenty of outdoor options. We recommend using Marrakesh as base for five or six nights to explore the surrounding area. An excellent private guide is essential in Morocco, and we arrange activities such as in-depth explorations of the ancient medina, Moroccan cooking classes, tours focused on decorative arts, gardens and architecture, and shopping for exquisite tiles, Berber carpets, pottery, lanterns, fashion accessories and house wares. We also highly recommend a day tour to the Atlas Mountains to visit a Berber market, have lunch at a luxury Kasbah, ride camels and perhaps do some hiking or take a hot air balloon ride. Another recommended day tour is to the whitewashed seaside town of Essaouira. We book the city's best luxury resorts--the Amanjena and the newly re-opened La Mamounia--as well as a few select traditional ryads. The resorts are exclusive and decadent getaways in and of themselves, with beautiful Moroccan interior design, gardens, and spas.

2.) Vienna & Prague
Vienna and Prague are a great combination any time of the year. December is a particularly magical time, when Christmas markets fill town squares with small stands selling handmade wooden crafts and delectable baked goods, streets twinkle with Christmas lights, pedestrians warm themselves with steaming cups of mulled wine and hot chocolate, and a light dusting of fresh snow adds sparkle to the towers of Prague and the palaces of Vienna. Each city also offers interior worlds sure to charm travelers--ornate cafes serving delicate pastries, incredible museums resplendent with art stretching across the centuries, and revered concert halls reverberating with classical music, a highlight of the region. We arrange private drivers and guides for insider-access, hard-to-get tickets at local performances, luxury accommodations, and a private transfer between the cities. A six-day trip, with three nights in each city, is plenty of time to experience the highlights of Prague and Vienna.

3.) Egypt
The mild winter season is an ideal time to tour Egypt, a trip-of-a-lifetime for many travelers. Egypt's most impressive cultural highlights--Cairo, the Pyramids, Aswan, the Nile River and the temples of Luxor--can be experienced in as little as a week (though most travelers opt to spend 10 to 14 days). Traveling with your own Egyptologist and a private driver greatly enhances any tour of Egypt, granting access to sites when the crowds are away, and allowing you to tour at your own pace and according to your interests. Throughout December, travelers can enjoy the spirit of Western-style Christmas and the festivities surrounding Coptic Christmas (celebrated on January 7), such as Coptic holiday music and kahk, special cookies eaten to celebrate the arrival of Coptic Christmas and the end of the fasting that leads up to it. Our "A Week in Egypt" tour is one recommended option, and we also can customize private Egypt tours such as Cairo and Alexandria, Cairo and short Nile cruises, or Cairo, the Pyramids and time at a resort.

4.) Rome
Rome wasn't built in a day, and it can't be seen in a day. A week, however, generally gives culturally inclined travelers enough time to see Rome's most interesting ruins, churches, museums and neighborhoods in a leisurely and in-depth manner, especially when accompanied by our expert local guides. Most attractions remain open during the holidays, and some even host seasonal festivals or construct special Christmas displays. Rome is also a great base for excursions to nearby gardens and ruins, such as Villa d'Este and Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa), or farther afield to the timeless landscapes--and great food, wine and culture--of Umbria and Tuscany. The temperature is comfortable over the holidays, and many families particularly enjoy touring the ruins, enjoying the great food, taking a few excursions, and enjoying luxurious hotels such as Hotel de Russie and La Posta Vecchia.

5.) Istanbul
A week is the perfect amount of time to explore endlessly fascinating Istanbul. We love the balance of old-meets-new, and we design tours to emphasize the best of ancient Istanbul (such as the Hagia Sofia, the Blue Mosque, the Harem at Topkapi Palace, and the bustling traditional markets and restaurants) and the city's contemporary culture (art galleries and museums, upscale shops, and fashionable rooftop restaurants). Istanbul also offers Turkey's best luxury hotels, including urban resorts like the Ciragan Palace and the Four Seasons Hotel at the Bosphorus.

Porticos of Bologna

2009-09-25T18:38:58Z

Porticos are as essential to Bologna as gourmet food and university students. The distinctive covered walkways course 38 kilometers (more than 23 miles) through this attractive and very walkable city in the Emilia-Romagna region of northern Italy, sheltering pedestrians and window-shoppers from the elements while providing access to daylight and fresh air.

Porticos typically flow smoothly from one building to the next, but architectural styles and materials can vary greatly. For example, columns might be round, square, octagonal or tapered, and ceilings can be flat, barrel-vaulted or groin-vaulted. Bologna's oldest extant porticos date from the medieval period and are made of unadorned wood. Most porticos, however, are built of terracotta, stone, Bologna's distinctive red brick, or a combination of these.

The most beautiful porticos in the city are like open-air art galleries that can be enjoyed rain or shine. While strolling along terrazzo floors, you can admire marble columns topped with delicately carved capitals and gaze overhead at elaborately frescoed ceilings. The frescoes are works of art featuring family crests, mythological creatures, and even a celebration of wine.

Bologna's longest and perhaps most famous portico climbs nearly four kilometers (more than two miles) up the bucolic slopes of Monte della Guardia to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca. Built over a centuries-old pilgrimage route and completed in 1732, the portico has 666 arches and panoramic views over the rolling Emilia-Romagna countryside. (Fans of John Grisham might remember this portico from the writer's 2005 novel The Broker, part of which was set in Bologna.)

The porticos of Bologna also tell an interesting story about the development of the city and its world-renowned university. Originating in 1088, the University of Bologna is considered the oldest university in Europe. From early on, an influx of students from across the Continent created a housing shortage. Bologna sought to remedy the situation by allowing homeowners to expand their dwellings toward the street--leading to the portico solution--provided they took in students as boarders.

By the 13th century, porticos had become increasingly popular in Bologna, and in 1288, the city passed a law dictating that porticos be built on private land on all streets where they were considered useful. In 1363, the city restricted any further construction of wooden porticos--a trace of which still exist today--and brick and stone soon became the most commonly used materials.

Today, Bologna's porticos connect destinations throughout the city, from the classroom to the church, the post office to the pasta shop, and they add visual cohesion and architectural complexity to the cityscape. Already protected by the municipal and national governments, Bologna's porticos have been submitted to UNESCO to be considered for World Heritage status.

Our private tours of Bologna frequently combine the best of the city's art and food, and include strolling through some of the most interesting and beautifully frescoed porticos; touring historic palaces, university buildings and other landmarks; touring the Jewish Quarter; browsing the extensive gourmet food markets (some of the best in Italy); and stopping for a meal of some of Bologna's culinary specialties, such as tortellini, tagliatelle, mortadella and, of course, ragu alla bolognese.

We also arrange private touring in Padua and Turin, two more great Italian cities with extensive porticos (in addition to other wonderful attractions).

Classical music: a Central European tradition

2009-09-17T21:07:11Z

Classical music is the enduring soundtrack of Central Europe and one of the many compelling reasons to visit the region. Some of the world's greatest composers were born here--including Bach, Mozart, Beethoven, Chopin, Liszt and Dvorak--and their musical masterpieces are a legacy treasured by locals and visitors alike.

One of our favorite ways to immerse ourselves, and our clients, in this living music tradition is by procuring prime tickets to performances at the stunningly beautiful and acoustically refined opera houses, concert halls and other performance spaces in the region, such as the Wiener Staatsoper (Vienna State Opera), the Berlin Philharmonic, the Hungarian State Opera in Budapest, and the National Theatre and Estates Theater in Prague.

Seeing the Vienna Boys' Choir is a highlight for many of our travelers who visit Central Europe. We also arrange private recitals and concerts in attractive local churches, palaces and other historic buildings to suit the schedule and interests of our travelers.

Seasonal music festivals and other special events abound in many of Central Europe's must-see destinations. We arrange for our travelers to attend the best of them, such as the Prague Spring International Music Festival, the Salzburg Festival and the Leipzig Bach Festival in the summer, the Haydn Festival Eisenstadt in September, and the Vienna Philharmonic's famous New Year concerts.

Classical music enthusiasts visiting Central Europe will also appreciate our special-interest music tours of historic sites dedicated to the lives and works of individual composers. Favorites include tours of Mozart's birthplace in Salzburg and Mozarthaus in Vienna; a private excursion to Chopin's birthplace in the Polish countryside and a visit to the Warsaw church where the composer's heart is entombed; private tours of the Bela Bartok Memorial House, Ferenc Liszt Memorial Museum and Music History Museum in Budapest; a backstage tour of the Estates Theater in Prague; a tour of the W. A. Mozart Museum at Villa Bertramka in Prague; and a private excursion to the birthplace of Antonin Dvorak in a small castle town in the Czech Republic.

Performances and access to festivals and music-related attractions can be incorporated into any of our Central Europe tours, including Austria, the Czech Republic, Germany, Hungary and Poland.

Must stay: the Nam Hai in Hoi An, Vietnam

2009-09-11T17:58:16Z

The Nam Hai is the best luxury resort in Vietnam and is a must for anyone in search of luxury, relaxation (beach and spa time), and plenty of activities (including some of Vietnam's best cultural touring).

The resort is located on a beautiful white-sand beach in Central Vietnam. Guests at the Nam Hai stay in spacious private villas surrounded by manicured lawns and swaying palm trees. The private villas are a luxurious, modern take on traditional Vietnamese architecture, offering soothing views of the beach and the South China Sea. Add infinity pools, two gourmet restaurants and a spa overlooking a lagoon, and many guests never want to leave the Nam Hai.

That would be a shame, because the Nam Hai is near one of Vietnam's cultural highlights, the atmospheric town of Hoi An. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hoi An has been an important trading center on the Thu Bon River for centuries, and its narrow streets are lined with small-scale houses and shops in a charming blend of domestic and foreign styles.

We encourage all visitors to Vietnam to include several nights at the Nam Hai. In addition to enjoying the resort, we arrange private touring that includes the best of Hoi An and the surrounding region: walking and biking in the colorful backstreets, shopping for bespoke silk clothing, cooking classes and market tours, visits to local craft villages, tours of Cham ruins, and hiking up revered mountains covered with Buddhist temples.

With this combination of culture, luxury and beauty, it's easy to understand why the Nam Hai is one of the most popular stops on our private tours of Vietnam and Southeast Asia.

Traditional Buddhist culture in Luang Prabang, Laos

2009-08-20T17:00:21Z

Luang Prabang is a wonderful place to experience the rhythms of a traditional Buddhist culture. The atmospheric town in northern Laos sits on the banks of the slow-moving Mekong River, and traditional wooden houses, French colonial architecture, abundant palm trees, and a lack of high-rise buildings give it a low-key, unspoiled charm.

Dozens of modest but well-preserved Buddhist temples, or wats, spread throughout Luang Prabang are essential to the town's unique ambience (and its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site). They also play an integral role in the moral, religious and educational life of the local population.

Many Lao boys are initiated into temples, where they study for several years to gain a general education and a firm grounding in Buddhist doctrine. Temples are great places to observe novices going about their daily routines, such as sweeping the grounds, studying on the steps of the temples, and participating in prayers.

One of the highlights for many of our travelers to Luang Prabang is watching hundreds of saffron-robed monks stream through the streets each day collecting alms, small handfuls of sticky rice offered by devoted locals kneeling along the pathways.

The most revered Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang, and one of our favorites, is Wat Xieng Thong. Built in 1560, the temple has a distinctive swallowtail roofline, elaborate gold leaf and gold stencil decoration, and a sparkling glass mosaic of a Bodhi tree covering an exterior wall.

Another place we like to take our travelers is Mount Phousi, a verdant hill that rises from the center of Luang Prabang, to see the golden Buddhist stupa on top and take in panoramic views of the town, the river, and the surrounding mountains. En route, many of our travelers have the good fortune of hearing the monks at nearby Wat Thum Thao--every three hours they beat drums, cymbals and gongs to keep dragons at bay.

One of our favorite day trips from Luang Prabang is to cruise on the Mekong River to the Pak Ou Caves, where thousands of Buddha statues have been placed inside limestone grottoes on the edge of the river. The journey is also a great way to experience the river, see life in rural Laos, and relax among the verdant landscapes.

An exclusive experience we arrange for our travelers is a visit to Luang Prabang's unique Buddhist photo archive. Using cameras left from the French Colonial days, local monks have taken the images over the past 100 years, recording a visual history of temple life in the town.

When not visiting wats or touring around Luang Prabang, we like to visit the local market, watch local children bathe their water buffalos in the Mekong River, stroll pedestrian-friendly streets lined with French colonial buildings, and browse shops for local crafts such as mulberry paper and elegant silk weavings.

Though Buddhist culture permeates life in Luang Prabang, our travelers need not forgo material pleasures. The town has two beautiful hotels. La Residence Phou Vao, an Orient-Express property, has a colonial atmosphere and hilltop views. The new Amantaka occupies the former French colonial-era hospital and brings the famed Aman touch to Luang Prabang, with large rooms and private plunge pools. Both properties have luxurious spas and excellent dining options.

Luang Prabang combines well with many of our favorite destinations in Southeast Asia, including Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Siem Reap and Hanoi.

An interview with one of our culinary travel experts

2009-08-12T20:05:26Z

Leah is one of the travel experts based in our New York City office. She's passionate about great food, and she helps design our private international culinary tours.

Q: How does food influence how you travel?

A: Basically, I travel to eat. Quite often I plan my touring around a certain restaurant I want to try, or I'll visit a town that's famous solely for a particular dish. The first time I visited Hong Kong I made a point of traveling to Macau just for a lunch of delicious Macanese food--and to visit a bakery located far from the tourist sights because I'd heard they made the best dan ta (egg-custard tarts) in the world...and after eating a half-dozen of them in one sitting, I'd have to say I agreed. Whenever I'm in Barcelona or the Costa Brava in season, I go out of my way to find a restaurant serving tallarinas (tiny, flat clams with pinkish meat, usually served in a garlic and parsley sauce--scrumptious). In Jerusalem, I always stop at my favorite Jerusalem bagel vendor--warm and freshly baked, sprinkled with hyssop, there's no bagel like a Jerusalem bagel! My main mission when I travel to Peru is to find the best new cevicher�as, even if that means going far out of my way--I once went all the way to Pisco because I'd heard of a place specializing in scallop ceviche that I wanted to try. And I timed my recent visit to Mumbai to coincide with Alphonso mango season, one of the most delectable fruits on the planet and difficult to find (and not quite as good) outside of India. If there's one thing I indulge in, it's food...it's a good thing I get a lot of exercise on my trips!

Q: What is your favorite type of cuisine?

A: I like just about everything! I have my favorite dishes from each country I've ever visited, but overall I'd say Spain, Italy, Thailand and Singapore are my favorite culinary destinations. I also eat a lot of typical French brasserie food, as well as Japanese, Cuban and Mexican.

Q: Name a few of the most memorable dishes you've tried during your travels.

A: On a recent trip to India, I had the most incredible dish during dinner in Jaipur--lightly fried cottage cheese dumplings filled with chopped mushrooms and nuts in a divine saffron sauce, accompanied by raw sweet onions sprinkled with lime juice and cumin...heavenly. Another dish that comes to mind is one I was served at a restaurant my guide took me to in Lijiang, China, called "crispy pork"--it was actually thick, delicious, crispy bacon, mixed with fried mint leaves, hot red pepper, sesame seeds and spring onions. I never would have thought of mixing bacon and mint, but it was just fantastic. In Vietnam--famous for its strong, flavorful coffee--I happened upon this hole-in-the-wall caf�, where I discovered the best coffee drink I've ever had: coffee with raw egg whipped into sweetened condensed milk. Rich and creamy, almost like a dessert. The coffee is served in a cup of hot water so that the egg doesn't curdle.

Q: Does food influence the way you design your clients' touring?

A: I design tours to incorporate what I think will be most interesting to my clients, and that includes food, especially if I know the client is a foodie. For example, instead of simply transferring travelers from one city to the next, whenever it makes sense I will time the transfer with a stop for lunch en route at a particularly exceptional restaurant. Even during city tours, I often recommend a quick stop at a noteworthy caf� or gelateria. I like to give tips on unique local dishes or drinks they might like to try, and if a client has a specific interest, such as Jewish touring in Venice, for example, I will think of a way to add food to the experience, like suggesting they have lunch at a kosher eatery near the old Jewish Ghetto.

Q: What are your favorite food markets?

A: I absolutely love food markets and try to visit them wherever I travel. Some of my favorites are the Boqueria Market in Barcelona; Campo de' Fiori in Rome; the Kauppatori fish market in Helsinki; the Central Market in Santiago, Chile; Crawford Market in Mumbai; and Eliseev in Moscow (not really a "market," but it's one of the most beautiful, well-stocked, gourmet supermarkets in the world, and a must-visit). I also love the hawker stalls in Bangkok's Chinatown and Chiang Mai's night market, and at Fu Lu Shou Complex in Singapore at breakfast-time.

Q: What are the most popular destinations for your clients who are food lovers?

A: Italy, Spain, France, Japan, Vietnam, Thailand and Morocco--the quality and variety of food is incredible in these countries, and there are so many wonderful dishes to try that are hard to find elsewhere. Many travelers to countries such as Japan and Thailand and even Italy tell me that they were amazed at how much better the food tastes in situ as opposed to what is served in even the best restaurants here in the States, and how excited they were to have tried typical daily dishes that they had never seen before. Our clients especially love the excellent cooking classes and visits to the best local markets, wineries and food production facilities (such as cheese makers, olive oil mills, fish farms, rice noodle factories, etc.) that we arrange for them.

Q: Are there any other destinations that you would recommend for travelers interested in food?

A: Yes! Our tours of Argentina, Russia, Austria, Turkey and New Zealand are very popular, but most people don't realize how incredible the food is until they've been there. These countries have very rich culinary traditions, and excellent gastronomic touring possibilities.

Q: What are your favorite foodie books?

A: I like books that make me want to eat the food being described. MFK Fisher is very good at this, as is Ernest Hemingway (especially in "The Sun Also Rises" and "A Moveable Feast"), even though his aren't "foodie" books. I love Ruth Reichl's "Tender at the Bone" and Anthony Bourdain's "A Cook's Tour," which was one of the inspirations for my first trip to Asia. Recently I finished "Climbing the Mango Trees: A Memoir of a Childhood in India" by Madhur Jaffrey, and that really whetted my appetite for my trip to India! I enjoy food-themed movies as well--one of my favorite films of all time is "Tampopo."

Q: Is there something you always like to buy when you travel?

A: Yes--any specialty food items I can get through customs! I also buy local crafts, such as textiles, pottery and jewelry. Some favorite purchases include a Kurdish kilim from Cappadocia, Turkey; a Rajasthani textile piece from Udaipur, India; glazed clay cookware from Pomaire, Chile; and an ikat weaving from Flores, Indonesia. I love that whenever I look around my apartment, I'm reminded of my past travels.

Q: What utensils do you cook with most often?

A: I have a ton of utensils, but really all I need is a spatula, wooden spoon, tongs and butcher knife. And my amazing Breville blender.

Secret London: Chelsea Physic Garden

2009-08-03T22:08:41Z

The Chelsea Physic Garden is one of our favorite places in London. Hidden behind high brick walls and largely unknown to many travelers, this three-and-a-half-acre garden is not just a beautiful and relaxing sanctuary. It's also a fascinating window into the botanical world, international trade and London's history.

The garden was founded in 1673 by the Society of Apothecaries to train apprentices and medical students in botany and the identification of medicinal plants.

The site's unique microclimate--tempered by the nearby River Thames--allows a surprising range of plants to grow outdoors, even palm, olive and grapefruit trees.

Another unusual feature of the garden is the Botanical Order Beds, which are laid out to illustrate the evolutionary relationships among the plants growing in them.

The Chelsea Physic Garden is a great place for tea, lunch, or a leisurely stroll through the garden to see what's flowering with the season, peer at the tropical plants inside the greenhouses, and relish the wafting scents of lemon verbena, lavender and roses.

The interesting pharmaceutical garden features different plants that are used to treat heart trouble, skin problems, nervous disorders and other ailments.

There's also a small shop that sells interesting gardening books, utensils, seeds and materials related to the garden's history.

We always buy a jar of the garden's much sought-after honey before it sells out. The garden's beehives--stuffed with pollen from the diverse flora--produce a limited amount of the unique elixir, and it's available only in the summer.

The garden is located in one of our favorite sections of Chelsea, right on Cheyne Walk along the River Thames.

From the garden, it's just a short stroll through elegant residential streets to the King's Road, Sloane Square, and major attractions such as the Victoria and Albert Museum.